Reef Ramblings

What is so special about the Miracle Mud?

Miracle Mud is 80% oceanic mud, harvested in a certain region at a certain depth, 20% trade secret when processed we blend minerals and trace elements that is time released into the water column. Therefore it is not necessary to add any chemicals or additives to balance the water chemistry.

How often should I do a 50% mud change?

New Ecosystems can run for two years before a mud change is required. After this initial two-year period, a 50% mud change is needed each year thereafter.

Why do I need to do a 50% mud change?

A 50% mud change is necessary to replenish the essential trace elements that are consumed by the animals.

How to prepare for a mud change.

Premixed saltwater prepared 24 hours ahead of time (all volumes approximate), 2410 use 38 litres, 3012 use 56 litres, 3612 use 76 litres, 3616 use 95 litres. – Wide flat spatula or spoon – Siphon hose (minimum of 3/4″ inch in diameter) (pump optional) – (1 – 2) 25 litre bucket(s) – A few towels (for clean up) – Replacement Miracle Mud (50% of total amount needed for sump/filter) 2410 use 2.25 kg, 3012 use 4.5 kg, 3612 use 6.75 kg, 3616 use 9 kg.

How to perform a 50% mud change?

1.     Unplug the lights and pumps in the sump/filter area. Allow the water to backflow into the sump/filter.

2.     Siphon the loose detritus off the top of the entire Chamber 2/mud-bed with the siphon hose (you might remove a little mud during this process – which is acceptable).

3.     Remove as much water as possible from Chamber 2/mud-bed area.

4.     At this point, divide Chamber 2/mud-bed into 2 halves (left and right). Decide which half you will replace. Leave other side untouched until next year.

5.     Remove the algae/plants from the half that you have decided to replace. Lay the plants on top of the other mud section for now.

6.     Remove the mud with the spatula/spoon and discard the used mud.

7.     Pour replacement mud into the filter and level off with your hand.

8.     Lay the empty miracle mud bag over the top of the mud-bed and slowly pour the new premixed saltwater on top of the bag until the water level is 1 inch over the mud-bed (using the bag prevents disruption of the mud-bed when water is poured over it).

9.     After a few minutes, carefully remove the bag and replant the algae/plants into the new mud-bed.

10.  Again, lay the empty miracle mud bag on top of the algae bed and fill Chamber 2/mud-bed with water to the top of Chamber 3’s overflow wall.

11.  Carefully remove plastic bag.

12.  Remove floating debris from mud-bed chamber.

13.  Allow system to settle for 1 hour.

14.  Start system up (lights and pumps)

Do I need to inoculate the mud-bed with sea critters?

No. This will happen within 4 – 6 weeks.

What kind of Caulerpa/Plant do I need for my sump????

The function of Caulerpa is to create photosynthesis, which will oxygenate the water, and also fixation of nutrients for example Nitrates and Phosphates into plant biomass. Therefore it is important to keep the Caulerpa trimmed, which will help remove excess nutrients. To answer the question, any type of Caulerpa will achieve the goal.

Do I need Caulerpa Plants in my EcoSystem????

Caulerpa plants are beneficial but not absolutely necessary. Your EcoSystem will perform at an optimum level with Caulerpa Plants. Without Caulerpa Plants you can expect to see some Hair Algae in the main tank. This can be overcome by introducing algae grazing fish, crabs and snails. All the benefits from the Miracle Mud will still exist.

Trimming the Caulerpa. When and how often??????

Caulerpa should be trimmed or thinned as needed by utilizing scissors to cut away thick growth at the surface allowing light to penetrate the base. Do not pull Caulerpa holdfasts (root-like structures) from mud-bed.

What species of Caulerpa are best?

There is no one species better than another.

Can I use multiple species of Caulerpa?

Yes. Although it is likely that a single species will end up out competing the others.

Can I use Seagrass in the mud-bed chamber?

Yes.

Can I use Chaetomorpha in the mud-bed chamber?

Yes.

Can I plant a mangrove in the mud-bed?

Yes.

Where do I get Caulerpa????

If your local dealer has an EcoSystem display, they should be harvesting Caulerpa on a regular basis. If they do not have a display, they should have a number of contacts in your area.

Will the EcoSystem mud filter work without algae or plants?

Yes.

Can I have substrate in the main tank?

Yes, keep it under 1″ deep.

How much Live Sand or Crushed Coral do I put into my Main Tank????

In an Ecosystem tank the purpose of the substrate is for decoration only!!!! The substrate does not contribute to the filtration of the system. Our experiments indicate a base of 1″ or more could become a nutrient sink and could produce an undesired effect. The Nitrites and Phosphates will become high, an Algae Bloom could occur, and maybe Hydrogen Sulphide Gas. We recommend the substrate in the main tank be limited to 3/8″ or less. We also recommend siphoning the substrate to remove detritus and regular water changes.

How often should I do water changes in an EcoSystem filtered tank?

1. Generally 5% – 10% per month (Marine of Freshwater)
2. The purpose for water changes in an EcoSystem filtered tank is to remove detritus from the main tank and substrate. First turn off all your pumps. Using a small power head or turkey baster blow detritus off all rockwork, allow debris to settle on substrate for around a half hour before syphoning off. Replace all siphoned water and restart your system. Fish only tanks should be done bi-weekly basis.

How often should I feed the fish?

As often as you eat!!!! Two to three times daily.

What Freshwater plants can I use in the mud?

Any kind of easy fast growing aquatic plants.

Should the lights be left on 24/7 over the mud?

Yes, Marine and Freshwater.

How often should I change the lights on my filter?

Once a year.

Do I need Carbon in an EcoSystem filtered tank?

No.

Can I use Carbon on an EcoSystem filtered tank?

Yes, carbon should only be used as a polisher after water change.

Is the EcoSystem method a modified algae scrubber?

No.

What elements should I be testing for in my reef tank?

Calcium and dKH/ALK

Calcium should be between 350 – 450ppm

dKH / Alkalinity should be between 7 – 10 dKH (2.5 – 3.5 meq/L)

Can the Ecosystem sumps handle overflow water in the event of power failure?

Yes. Be sure to use the recommended sump size:

150 – 227 Litres   System 2410	265 – 360 Litres   System 3012	380 -  511 Litres   System 3612
530 – 908 Litres   System 3616	946 – 1892 Litres   System 4822	1892 -  3785 Litres   System 7222

Can I use a pre filter on an EcoSystem filtered tank?

Yes. Must be cleaned weekly.

Can I use a UV Sterilizer with an EcoSystem Filter?

Yes.

Do I turn off my pump to feed my fish???

No!!! Not necessary.

Can I put a heater in the EcoSystem Sump????

Yes!!! We recommend you place it in chamber number one, please do not place it in chamber number two with the Miracle Mud and the live plants, the algae will grow on the heater and could kill the plants.

Can I use a calcium reactor in an EcoSystem mud filtered tank?

Yes.

Note: some dimensions may be subject to review for UK.

 

Leng Sy

EcoSystem Aquarium

 

Editor

Tim Hayes

EcoSystem aquarium UK

©2011

When adding a MarinePure Block to your system, to help increase your filtration capacity for dealing with nitrates, it has to go through the process of cycling in much the way that a new aquarium does. This can delay the availability of the additional filtration capacity from the MarinePure media by a month or so while bacteria migrates to the new media and slowly colonises it.

You can speed up this process by inoculating the Marine Pure media with DrTim’s One and Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria; this product will almost instantly establish the media as a working bio filter capable of nitrification, shortening the time until it becomes capable of denitrification.

Procedure.

• Select a waterproof container large enough to accommodate the amount of MarinePure to be inoculated.
• Using water from the aquarium that the block is destined to be added to, fill with sufficient water to cover the media.
• Take a 2 oz bottle of DrTim’s One and Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria, shake vigorously, and then add to the water.
• Submerge the MarinePure in the container and agitate for a minute or so to ensure that the live bacteria thoroughly penetrate the media.
• Leave for around half an hour before transferring to your sump or aquarium.
• Return remaining water to the system.

You can improve on this technique by carrying out the inoculation inside a plastic bag; the inoculated media can then be transferred to the aquarium without it being exposed to the air.

This procedure can also be used to turn other dry media, such as dried out reef rock, into a live bio filter, although you won’t benefit from the consistent filtration capacity of MarinePure.

 

Tim Hayes

Midland Reefs

©2011

New from Magnavore as part of the PURA filtration range, Sparkle – Liquid Phosphate Remover.

For Fresh and Saltwater Aquariums

Sparkle is a potent product yet very safe for use in salt and fresh water aquariums when used according to instructions.

Removes Phosphates

Phosphates are the leading cause of unsightly algae growth in all aquariums. Removing phosphates will cause a natural decline in scum and algae formation and growth. Sparkle has been formulated to provide a safe and gradual removal of phosphates from aquarium water.

Increases Water Clarity

When high phosphate levels are present, the water may get hazy with the first few applications, but within a few hours of use sparkling-clean water will return.

Directions For Use:

Measure out indicated amount and pour slowly into aquarium next to filter intake. Do not overdose; sparkle is designed to lower high level of phosphates gradually and safely.

Mechanical Filtration

Sparkle greatly increases efficiency of mechanical filtration. Cartridges and filtration pads should be rinsed 24 to 48 hours after application.

This product contains Lanthanum – a natural rare-earth element.

For aquarium use only. Keep out of reach of children! Do not take internally. Avoid contact with skin and clothing. Flush with plenty of water in case of eye contact and consult a physician.

Note: Midland Reefs has added this product to the range in response to customer requests. Although the product works well and is safe when used according to the Magnavore instructions above, we’d like to add a note of caution aimed at its use in reef aquaria.

We recommend using Sparkle with caution and only use it to reduce high levels of phosphates down to a level where conventional phosphate removal media becomes economic. Dose conservatively until phosphate levels are down to around 0.1 mg/l; discontinue use of Sparkle and then switch to using Reef Scientific Phosphate Remover for long-term maintenance.

When using Sparkle monitor pH and carbonate alkalinity (dKH) as lanthanum can also precipitate carbonates which may result in a lowering of these two parameters.

Sparkle should be dosed within the filtration section of a system with the aim of removing all precipitates through mechanical filtration or by protein skimming.

We do not recommend the long-term use of Sparkle in the reef aquarium.

Tim Hayes

Midland Reefs

©2011

Cyanobacteria outbreaks in the marine aquarium are nearly always the result of inadequate husbandry, it’s a problem that builds up steadily over time before manifesting itself as a wine red bio-film on the substrate, rockwork, and eventually, even on corals. Over time, excess nutrients introduced into the aquarium through feeding and the addition of various supplements, build up to become a potential reserve ready to fuel outbreaks of cyanobacteria and pest algae. Overfeeding, overstocking with fish, inadequate amounts of live rock, inadequate filtration, and poor maintenance are all factors, which can contribute to cyanobacteria and pest algae outbreaks. Poor flow and lighting issues are also often implicated in cyano outbreaks but may be considered a trigger rather than the cause.

In addition to cyano being unsightly, depending on species, it can produce various forms of toxins, which can be detrimental to corals on contact, toxins detrimental to fishes, and may also deplete oxygen levels in the aquarium.

Treating Cyanobacteria with DrTim’s Re-Fresh and Waste-Away.

Treating Cyanobacteria with DrTim’s Re-Fresh and Waste-Away is a two-pronged approach that works in more than 90% of cases. It’s a completely natural process using bacteria and, unlike antibiotics or chemicals, there is no danger of killing off beneficial microorganisms, such as nitrifying bacteria. Not only does this treatment cure the symptoms but it also goes along way towards eliminating the source of the problem, something other treatments don’t do (See note at the end of article).

Re-Fresh is the initial treatment, a potent combination of beneficial bacteria that work together to maintain clear water, clean aquarium surfaces and eliminate unpleasant odours. If cyano is out of control in your aquarium and you’re at wits end – use it! However, it will not cure the problem, it only treats the symptoms just like other cyano products. By following-up with Waste-Away you go after the factors causing cyanobacteria, nutrients such as organics, nitrate and phosphate, ending up with a complete cure.

Waste-Away is an innovative, special blend of bacteria isolated from our own freshwater and saltwater aquaria and ponds. These bacteria attack organics, both dissolved and particulate, in the aquarium and in the process consume phosphate and nitrate. As mentioned organics, nitrate and phosphate fuel growth of algae, slime and cyanobacteria so using antibiotics/algaecides will only temporally help. And once they kill their target the dead algae and cyanobacteria decay producing more organics and nutrients to feed more algae and cyanobacteria – continuing the cycle.

Go Natural – Stop Using Chemicals and Antibiotics!

Using DrTim’s Aquatics Waste-Away as a 100% Natural way to get rid of the underlying cause of out of control growth of aquarium slime, algae and cyanobacteria. These unsightly organisms grow when nutrients and organics are high in your aquarium. The only long-term way to deal with them is to eliminate their food – excess nutrient and organics.

How to get rid of algae and cyanobacteria.

The outdated methods of using antibiotics and algaecides have one ‘benefit’ – they work fast. You can usually see results in a day. But this ‘victory’ is short lived and the cyanobacteria or algae come back even stronger than before because, as mentioned earlier, the decaying dead cells become food that spurs the re-growth of the algae and cyanobacteria. The 100% natural alternative method presented here takes a little longer but does not involve any harmful chemicals or antibiotics just beneficial bacteria that get to the source of the problem.

Here’s how to proceed:

1) Manually remove as much of the algae/cyano as possible by siphoning, netting and micro filtration.

2) Use DrTim’s Re-Fresh for a total of 9 to 12 days adding Re-Fresh every 3 to 4 days (dosage is 5 ml per 40 litres aquarium water). While dosing with Re-Fresh you should notice a difference,  you’ll start see that the cyano is not coming back,  that’s the time to hit it one more time with Re-Fresh before starting with waste-away.

Reef tank owners – Do Not Overdose: high doses of Re-Fresh may harm snails and shrimp.

3) After the Re-Fresh regime, dose the aquarium with Waste-Away. Start with a half-dose (5ml per 10 gallons). Add another half dose 2 days later. If there are a lot of organics in the system you may experience cloudy water. This is a sign that the beneficial bacteria are working but also a sign to proceed cautiously because too much of a bacterial bloom can lower the oxygen to dangerous levels. If there is no cloudiness add a full dose on day 4.

Continue to add Waste-Away every 2 to 3 days (watching for any cloudiness) for 2 weeks. Generally at the end of this 4 week period of adding Re-Fresh and Waste-Away the tank will be clean and there will be a noticeable improvement in water clarity, cleanliness of the substrate, and no cyanobacteria

Once the aquarium is looking better we recommend adding Waste-Away on a routine basis – at least every month for a reef tank and every 2-3 weeks for a fish-only tank.

The above works! Click here to see testimonials from professionals

Waste-Away can do the job of clearing cyanobacteria on its own, just omit step 2, the Re-Fresh stage, and dose with Waste-Away every 2 to 3 days but it will take longer before you see results.

Note: it is important for you to evaluate the reasons for the organic build-up in the aquarium in the first place. Is it the result of overfeeding, over-population, lack of routine cleaning? To save you continued headaches a critical self-evaluation of the causes is warranted and action needed.

Tim Hayes

Midland Reefs

Dr Tim Hovanec

DrTim’s Aquatics

©2011

Reef Scientific RS Reactor Mix is a high performance multi-purpose chemical filtration media for aquarium use. This media removes dissolved organic carbon (DOC), phosphates, silicates, and other waste by products. RS Reactor Mix was originally formulated for use with the Magnavore Simplicity UV Reactor but it was soon realised that this is the ideal chemical filtration media for those with smaller aquariums, such as nano reefs, where there isn’t room to accommodate multiple types of chemical filter media i.e. phosphate remover and carbon. We recommend the continuous use of this media in reef aquaria as a means of removing DOC, such as terpenoids and other allelopathic compounds released by corals (that can damage or inhibit the growth of other species), yellowing compounds, phosphates, silicates, and other waste by products. This is particularly important where octocorals (soft corals) are concerned as they can release many different compounds detrimental to stony corals.

Regular use of RS Reactor Mix will keep aquarium water clear of the yellowing compounds associated with a build-up of DOC, benefiting corals by ensuring good light penetration.

Note: DOC is a catch-all term for the many organic chemical compounds that can build up in the aquarium.

Instructions.

Reactor Usage: When using RS Reactor Mix continually, replace two thirds of the media with new each month, at the same time rinse the remaining third in tank water before replacing in the reactor.

Bag filtration: Place RS Reactor Mix loosely in an 300µm mesh bag and locate in an area where water will flow through the bag. Occasionally agitate bag to help prevent channelling and to break up bio-films. Follow the same replacement schedule as for reactors.

Canister filtration: Load into filter as per filter manufacturer’s instructions. Reducing water flow through the filter may be beneficial. Do not reduce flow on outlet as this may result in pressurisation of the filter. Follow the same replacement schedule as for reactors.

A word of caution.

If chemical filtration media such as carbon or phosphate remover have not been previously employed in your reef aquarium start off with a low rate of flow though the reactor, gradually increasing the flow over the course of a week.In severe cases, where the aquarium water is heavily stained, abrupt removal of yellowing compounds can result in coral bleaching as a result of the sudden increase in available light.

______________________________________

RS Reactor Mix can be used in both saltwater and freshwater applications.

Available in two sizes: 200 gm and 400gm

The larger size, 400 gm, represents a full load for the Magnavore Reactor.

Hints ‘n’ Tips

• Periodic back flushing of all media reactors can help prolong useful media life by removing the bio-films that can otherwise clog the surface of the media.
• Many successful reef aquaria contain one or two species of coral that fail to thrive, this is often because of allelopathy, the chemical warfare carried out by soft corals. If this is the case with your reef, I would suggest running RS Reactor Mix as removal of allelopathic compounds can often resolve this problem.

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For more information on the role of chemical filtration media in the aquarium, look out for further articles on Reef Ramblings

Tim Hayes

Midland Reefs

©2010

 

The new expanded range of EcoSystem Aquarium products includes items not seen before in the UK. The Eco Balling Method, a 3-Part Calcium Supplement plus associated minor and trace elements is a new take on the traditional Balling System. The Eco Balling Method is designed to be easy enough for the newest of reefkeepers to use with success.

Background.

Continual improvements in techniques and advancements in aquarium technology have made the successful maintenance and propagation of more and more corals in the reef aquarium a reality. This has necessitated the development of an effective dosing system to deliver elements, such as calcium and carbonates, which are vital to the well-being of reef-building organisms.

In the early 1970s, a breakthrough in this area was made by German aquarist, Peter Wilkens, who advocated the use of kalkwasser in the aquarium. In this method, a saturated calcium hydroxide solution was “fed” into the aquarium, drop by drop, via a thin tube, but, this technique also caused a significant rise in pH.

In 1994, Ernst Pawlowsky, of Germany, introduced a new method of calcium supplementation, which soon became quite popular in the United States — Calcium part A and Calcium part B.

At around the same time, Rolf Hebbinghaus, of Germany, produced the CO2 calcium reactor, and Hans-Werner Balling developed the “Balling Method” of calcium supplementation.

By 1996, continued improvements in the Balling Method made it the method of choice for dosing reef aquariums with essential elements, such as calcium, magnesium, and other minerals, whilst maintaining adequate carbonate hardness (alkalinity).

When used correctly, all levels of major elements remain constant, with calcium levels at 420 mg/l, magnesium at about 1300 mg/l and carbonate alkalinity at 7 dKH.

The ECO Balling Method.

The ECO Balling Method Calcium A, B and C, has been formulated in Germany by EcoSystem Europe, and is an efficient, easy to use method of maintaining consistent levels of calcium, magnesium, carbonates and trace elements in the reef system.

For soft coral reefs using the Miracle Mud method, the Eco Balling 3-Part Calcium Supplement may be all the supplementation you require apart from those all important water changes.

According to the numerous German aquarists who have been using the Balling Method, although this methodology has accounted for a doubling is size of small-polyped stony (SPS) corals in their aquariums within about 100 days, colouration has been compromised unless the trace elements Iodine, iron, strontium and NF Metal (all included in the EcoSystem range)

So for SPS reefs using the Miracle Mud method, we recommend using the Eco Balling 3-Part Calcium Supplement plus the Eco Trace Elements.

What follows is a comprehensive, step by step, description of the ECO Balling Method for supplementing calcium, magnesium, other minerals and trace elements, and maintaining carbonate alkalinity at natural seawater levels.

Instructions for Use

Step 1

Before using the Eco Balling Method – Calcium 3-Part Supplement, measure all vital parameters in the reef aquarium with commercial test kits, including those for carbonate alkalinity (dKH), calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg).

Make the following adjustments in this exact order:

• if the Mg level is below 1300 ppm, adjust to a level of 1300 to 1400 ppm by using a magnesium supplement, such as Eco Magnesium – liquid (for established aquariums with livestock) or Eco Magnesium – powder (for new aquariums with no livestock).

• if the Ca level is below 400 ppm, adjust to a level of 420 to 439 ppm, by using a calcium supplement, such as Eco Balling Method – Calcium Part C (for established aquariums with livestock) or Eco Kalkwasser and Eco Calcium Plus (for new aquariums with no livestock).

• if the carbonate alkalinity level is below 7.0 dKH, adjust the carbonate alkalinity to 7.0 using Eco Balling Method – Calcium Part A (for established aquariums with livestock) or Eco Buffer dKH (for new aquariums with no livestock).

Step 1 should only need to be performed once.

Step 2

To maintain calcium at 420-430 ppm, magnesium at 1300-1400 ppm, and dkH at 7.0 and other important parameters at natural seawater levels:

Add 50 ml/200 litres of actual aquarium water volume per day of each part of the Eco Balling Method – Calcium Supplement Parts A, B, and C separately. This dosage may need to be varied depending on the stony coral population.

Step 3

Use a saturated calcium hydroxide solution, such as Eco Kalkwasser, at night to replace water lost to evaporation.

Step 4

Monitor carbonate alkalinity, dKH, weekly as it tends to decrease due to heavy consumption of calcium carbonate by stony corals.

Step 5

Do regular weekly water changes and monitor the salinity (salt content) of the aquarium water. Salt concentration tends to rise over time owing to factors such as water lost through evaporation and through the use of a protein skimmer.

Step 6

Supplement weekly with Eco Trace Elements – Eco Iodine, Eco Iron, Eco Strontium and Eco NF Metal.

You can see this product range on the Midland Reefs website under EcoSystem Aquarium (Miracle Mud)

Tim Hayes

EcoSystem Aquarium

©2009 -11

 

Hints ‘n’ Tips on Using Reef Scientific, Reef Gel.

This information sheet contains a few brief tips, aimed mostly at beginners, on how to use Reef Scientific Reef Gel for coral propagation.

Reef Gel is a very useful, simple tool for attaching corals to rock when propagating corals. It’s worth pointing out that whenever we attach corals we’re not really permanently gluing them in position, we’re merely holding the coral fragment in position until the coral grows onto the rock. Reef Gel is not suitable for attaching all corals. It’ll give best results when gluing “stone to stone” i.e. when working with stony corals. Good results are possible with Gorgonia and Stolonifera, and will sometimes work well with soft corals composed of large/coarse sclerites.

Why use Reef Gel?

We spent a long time testing and researching cyanoacrylate adhesives before coming up with Reef Gel. It’s a thixotropic (very thick) cyanoacrylate used in industry and has by far the best characteristics for coral retention of any adhesive in its class. Although we don’t state it on the packaging it will attach under water.

The added bonus of this product over others is that it comes with a disposable applicator tip – commonly, when using standard tubes of super glue gel, you only get a couple of uses out of the tube before it goes solid because of contamination. With the contamination issue out of the way the 20 g and 50 g bottles last until you’ve drained every drop from the bottle.

Basic Method of Using Reef Gel for Coral Attachment.

To get fragging you’ll need the following items:

• A bottle of Reef Gel.
• Reef Gel applicator tip.
• Two food safe containers, such as ice cream tubs (it’s best to eat the ice cream first),
• A suitable work surface (I use an old plastic kitchen chopping board).
• Paper towels or old terry towel.
• Suitable small pieces of live rock or frag plugs.

Stony Corals.

Prepare by choosing the frags you wish to attach and the pieces of rock you wish to attach them to, hold these in one of your containers filled with water from their tank of origin. Select your first victim and its new home, putting them down on your work surface, don’t worry over much about the time out of water and try not to hurry the process, if you do you’re more likely make a mess/mess it up. Using paper towel/terry towel dab dry your chosen point of attachment on the rock and dab dry the surface of the coral you wish to attach. You may have to repeat the last step depending on the moisture retaining characteristics of the rock or the propensity of the coral to produce mucous. When you’re satisfied the surfaces are as dry as can be reasonably expected apply one drop of Reef Gel to the coral, gently push the frag against the rock while rotating it a quarter turn, and hold for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the mounted frag to a second holding tank to rest, then go on to victim number two.

When the second frag’s been transferred to the holding tank return your attention to the first frag you did. Now it’s time to clean off any excess glue, this will show up as a white film which you can just peel off being careful not to dislodge the frag, and rinse off any excess mucous with a quick swish about in the holding tank prior to returning it to its parent tank.

Gorgonia.

The best way of preparing a gorgonian is to treat the frag you want to attach as though it was a piece of wire that you were stripping the insulation from. Just strip off 1 to 2 cms of “flesh” to expose the skeleton, find a bit of rock with a hole of suitable diameter and depth, dry the hole and exposed skeleton, apply drop of Reef Gel to the end of the frag, insert into the hole with a slight twisting motion, then return to the holding tank to rest.

N.B. with gorgonians it’s probably best to insert fairly deeply into your rock ‘cos the animal is going to need to be positioned in a high flow area of your tank, the deeper it’s anchored the less chance of it detaching.

Stolonifera.

With animals such as Briarium species, Star Polyps, that form a mat, it’s easy to just glue direct to rock, it’s worthwhile nicking the edge of the mat, with a knife or scissors, in between polyps as this seems to encourage new growth.

Clavularia – Clove polyps, the creeping stolon of this animal glues well, you can economically attach a small number of individual polyps evenly around a rock and find that it soon spreads to fill in the gaps.

Soft Corals.

The best candidate for attaching using Reef Gel is probably Sinularia dura; I’ve glued this coral successfully many times. Don’t bother trying to glue slimy corals, only those that have a rough texture and plenty of spiculite (fused sclerites) around the base.

Additionally, soft corals that have attached themselves to sand can be glued. This can come in very handy for corallimorpharia, mushroom corals, and for polyps. Just take a little more care drying off the sand and take care to minimise contact between the coral and the adhesive.

These are just a few ideas for using Reef Gel, if you have success with any corals that I haven’t mentioned, or come up with different ways of using the glue please get in touch so they can be added to this info sheet.

Caution:

Reef Gel contains cyanoacrylate. Bonds skin and eyes in seconds. Mild irritant. Use in well ventilated conditions. Do not breathe vapour. Keep out of the reach of children. In case of eye contact or in case of allergic reaction, contact a doctor immediately. Never store near valuables in case of spillage. Always store below 10°c.

Check out www.reeframblings.co.uk for more information about reef aquaria,the natural reef environment, reef aquarium articles, products, and news.

Tim Hayes.

Midland Reefs.

©2009 – 2012