Reef Aquarium Cleaning – the Front Glass
February 4th, 2012The imminent availability of the new JBL Floaty XL Blade has prompted me to put together a few thoughts on cleaning the reef aquarium.
Glass cleaning.
It’s important for your viewing pleasure to keep the front pane of the aquarium free from bio films. The frequency with which this is required will depend on a number of variables including the maturity of the reef tank, water parameters, feeding regime, and the unique assemblage of animals.
Types of bio films.
With out going into unnecessary detail, there are two basic types of bio films that we have to deal with, soft and hard.
Soft bio films can be bacterial or algal in nature, with algal films, comprising green micro-algae, hair algae, diatoms, cyanobacteria, etc. and are usually easy to remove.
Hard bio films are comprised of various species of coralline, or calcareous, algae and, if allowed to persist can be more difficult to remove.
Coralline algae are red algae belonging to the order Corallinales, phylum Rhodophyta. They are distinct, from other species of Rhodophyta in their rock like appearance and texture resulting from the incorporation of calcium carbonate into their cell walls. Although usually encountered in shades of pink and red, they can also be coloured green, blue, purple, yellow, white etc. depending on species. Although attractive in colour and texture they have no place on the viewing pane of the aquarium, particularly on the viewing pane of an acrylic or plastic one.
The age of the aquarium is often implicated in type of bio film encountered. Newly set up reefs will typically start off with blooms of diatoms covering every surface in a yellow through brown to gold film (also associated with water changes and evaporation top up where high levels of silicate are present i.e. When using tap water rather than Reverse Osmosis (RO) filtered water). Over time, different species of algal films are seen, one taking over from another (algal succession) culminating in the appearance of coralline algae.
Any bio film can reappear if the conditions in the aquarium alter, usually when maintenance is neglected and water parameters deviate from target levels.
Glass cleaning.
Essentially for this task there is a choice between two different tools: algae magnets or bladed scrapers.
Algae magnets
Algae magnets have two components, the one with the cleaning surface goes inside the aquarium glass while the second is positioned on the outside of the glass, opposite the first. The magnetic attraction allow you to move the cleaning magnet across the glass f from outside of the aquarium enabling you to clean algal films for the glass without getting your hands wet. The outer magnet usually features a soft cloth surface to prevent the outside of the glass from scratching,
The cleaning surface is generally a Velcro like surface that is mildly abrasive, hard enough to remove algae without scratching the glass. Note: algae magnets designed for use with acrylic or plastic aquarium use different materials to reduce the chance of scratching.
Glass tanks
Standard algae magnets are fine for general maintenance and will usually cope with all but coralline algae.
Take care though to avoid picking up sand, gravel, or bits of coral form the substrate as this can become trapped on the cleaning surface of the magnet and result in the glass becoming scratched on the inside.
Acrylic or plastic aquariums.
The material these tanks are made from is much softer than glass and more prone to scratching. Make sure that you buy the right algae magnet for the shop – one designed for use with acrylic or plastic.
The danger of scratching the inner surface is much higher than with glass, take care when cleaning and avoid picking up material from the substrate.
Quality
Higher quality algae magnets have at least two important features: they float and they use non-ferrous magnets.
Floating magnets are easier to work with. If the magnet inside the tank becomes separated from the outer controlling magnet it simply floats to the surface making it easier to retrieve, Non-floating magnets however can end up getting stuck amongst the rockwork in a reef and be difficult to recover.
Cheaper magnets use ferrous-based magnets; these should not be left permanently in the aquarium as they rust, in the process often distorting the casing rendering them useless.
Non-ferrous magnets use the rare earth material neodymium, they are far stronger, less likely to become separate in use, and rusting is not an issue. Because of their greater strength you should be careful when handling them outside of the aquarium as a moment of inattention may result in getting a finger trapped between the two magnets, a potentially painful experience so do keep them away from children.
The use of rare earth magnets explains the higher price of these items but the extended life and higher performance more than makes up for the price. At the time of writing, availability of rare earth materials is driving up the price of aquarium products utilising these materials such as algae magnets, high-end pumps, and magnetic pump mounts.
Additional features offered by higher quality magnets include things like angled edges to protect silicon seams of the aquarium and protruding cleaning surfaces to enable you to clean behind in-tank equipment.
Sizing
Algae magnets are usually sized according to the thickness of the glass that they will clean. When purchasing an algae magnet make sure that you know the thickness of you aquarium glass and buy the appropriate sized magnet.
- Too weak a magnet, one for thin glass, the more often it will fall off inside the aquarium and the less efficient it will be at removing algae.
- Too strong a magnet may be almost impossible to move on glass of less than the recommended thickness.
|
Product |
Tank material |
Glass thickness |
|
Floaty Nano |
Acrylic/Glass |
4 mm |
|
Floaty Mini |
Acrylic/Glass |
4 mm |
|
Floaty S |
Acrylic/Glass |
6 mm |
|
Glass |
6 mm |
|
|
Glass |
10 mm |
|
|
Glass |
15 mm |
|
|
Floaty XL Blade |
Glass |
20 – 25 mm |
|
Floaty Shark |
Glass |
20 – 30 mm |
Bladed magnets.
Some algae magnets, such as the JBL Floaty XL Blade, come with a blade that lets you remove the more stubborn coralline species that ordinary cleaning-pad algae magnets cannot deal with. Using a blade is also kinder to much of the micro-fauna inhabiting the inside surface of the viewing pane, cleaning-pad magnets can end up killing many of these small species by crushing them while a blade just pushes them off the glass.
Bladed Scrapers
Generally T-shaped, the down stroke being the handle, with the blade mounted across the top. You have to get your hand into the tank to use these but for smaller tanks these are probably the most efficient way of removing stubborn coralline algae, particularly if it has been allowed to build up over time.
Blades
Blade quality is important with these. Corrosion resistant stainless steel is claimed by most manufacturers but some blades do seem to be less resistant to corrosion than others. You can extend the life of the blade by rinsing it in freshwater then drying it after use. Its best to remove the blade for rinsing otherwise corrosion can take place inside the blade holder.
Double-sided blades offer greater usable life than a single sided blade and of course you do want a scraper where replacement blades are readily available.
Build quality
For reef use look out for an all-plastic handle. Beware of steel handled scrapers with a plastic covering as these corrode unnoticed until suddenly the handle fails under the pressure of use.
Easy removal of the blade for cleaning and replacement is essential, some designs if not kept scrupulously clean can be very difficult to open for blade removal once corrosion has set in.
Size
Tends to be a choice between a hand scraper i.e. handle just fits to the hand or scrapers that can accept a longer handle (often not supplied). Some manufacturers offer a range of scrapers with different length handles.
Cleaning Tips
Take a close look at the inside of the glass while you are cleaning it; you may be surprised to find the occasional primary polyp of a newly settled coral growing there. Spotting a primary polyp before cleaning it out of existence allows you to preserve it and let it grow to a handle able size before carefully removing it and mounting it on a piece of rock.
Close observation also allows you to assess the number of different species living on the glass allowing you to gauge the bio-diversity of your reef.
Regular cleaning of the front glass every two or three days puts micro-algae, copepods, and other benthic zooplankton into the water column making them available to your aquarium inhabitants as food.
When cleaning a neglected or overgrown front pane you may want to consider syphoning out the excess material rather than leaving it to break down inside the aquarium increasing the nutrient load. This is particularly important when you are dealing with an outbreak of cyanobacteria.
Be careful not to damage any silicon seams with a blade. Blades and scrapers are designed to be safe in use but nonetheless take care. I tend to leave a 5 – 10 mm margin uncleaned near the seams as a precaution.
Tim Hayes
Midland Reefs
©2012







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